The Canal du Midi, a 17th-century masterpiece designed by Pierre-Paul Riquet, links Toulouse to the Mediterranean over 240 kilometres, crossing locks, bridges and landscapes steeped in history. From its commercial origins to its listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it embodies human ingenuity, while at the same time facing up to contemporary challenges. This story invites you to discover the secrets of a waterway that continues to fascinate and transform the region over time and through the generations.

The canal that crosses the Midi
Imagine yourself aboard a barge, gliding gently along the peaceful waters of the Canal du Midi. The green banks unfold before your eyes like a masterpiece, lined with rows of plane trees stretching as far as the eye can see, while the murmur of the current lulls your thoughts to sleep. Your journey begins in the heart of Toulouse, the city where modernity and history meet, where it all began.
1662: A bold dream
The wind carries a whisper from another time, when Pierre-Paul Riquet, a man of character, was strolling along the banks of the Garonne. It was 1662, and already he was dreaming of a canal that would unite two seas, linking the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. For him, this was no mere project, but a grandiose, almost mad vision. How to bypass the dangerous Straits of Gibraltar and offer merchants a safer route, a fluid route that would pass through the south of France, irrigating the plains and energising the towns it would pass through?
Pierre-Paul Riquet, a tax collector at the time, was well aware of the needs of trade. His mind was teeming with ideas: why not use the rivers of the Pyrenees and the Montagne Noire to supply the canal? His contemporaries regarded him with scepticism, but he persisted. Convincing Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XIV‘s minister, was the first major battle he won. And so, four years later, in 1666, the dream became reality with the start of construction.
1666-1681: The construction epic
The barge moves slowly forward, and time seems to stand still, immersing you in the sound of shovels, pickaxes and the voices of workers. Thousands of farmers from all over the world are hard at work, relentlessly digging the soil of the Languedoc. Among them were men, women and children, diggers from the Midi who, day after day, shaped this gigantic scar in the soil of Occitanie, soon to be filled with water.
As you go along, the canal reveals its engineering treasures: the locks, the wooden and iron gates that control the flow of water and guide the boats. You pass through the first locks in Toulouse, emerging into a rural landscape that stretches to the horizon. Each lock tells its own story, from the Saint-Roch locks in Castelnaudary to the famous staircase locks at Fonseranes in Béziers, architectural masterpieces that allow ships to pass through at considerable heights.
Pierre-Paul Riquet, despite his declining health, kept an eye on every detail, visiting the site regularly. He ensured that water, the vital element of the canal, was kept under control thanks to an ingenious network of ditches coming from the Montagne Noire. But in 1680, with the canal almost complete, he died of exhaustion a few months before seeing his dream fully realised. He would never see the first barge glide through his life’s work.
18th and 19th centuries: From prosperity to oblivion
As you make your way towards Carcassonne, the banks seem to bear the shadow of another era, when the canal was a vital artery for the economy of southern France. Barges laden with grain, wine, timber and all manner of goods sailed endlessly, linking prosperous towns like Toulouse, Carcassonne and Béziers.
The canal, originally named the Royal Canal of Languedoc, helped transform the region into a hotbed of economic activity. But the arrival of the railway in the 19th century marked the beginning of its decline. The wind seems to be blowing the whispers of the first trains, whose speed and efficiency overshadowed river navigation. Little by little, the once bustling canal emptied out. But it never disappeared.
20th century: The revival
Suddenly, the landscape opens up to the locks at Fonseranes in Béziers. The sound of the water takes you back to more recent times. In the 1970s, the men and women of the Languedoc region, aware of the treasure they had in their hands, decided to breathe new life into this sleeping canal. From then on, it was no longer a transport tool, but a dream location, a unique tourist destination. In 1996, the Canal du Midi was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a crowning achievement for this centuries-old work of art.
Today, you’re no longer alone on board your barge: families, cycle tourists and nature and heritage lovers can be found on the towpaths, pedalling in the shade of the hundred-year-old plane trees, along this ribbon of water that winds through time.
2013 and beyond: The future of the canal
But the journey would not be complete without mentioning the challenges that the canal still has to overcome. From 2013, an invisible enemy, the colour canker, attacked the majestic plane trees that have lined the canal since the 19th century. Thousands of trees, symbols of the canal, are being felled to prevent the spread of the disease. You pass beneath the future shadows of new young trees: hackberry, ash and oak. The landscape is changing, but the spirit of the canal remains.
The replanting efforts are gigantic, and this is just another chapter in the long history of the Canal du Midi. The water continues to flow, a silent witness to the past, present and future. Each lock we pass is a tribute to the workers of yesteryear, to the dreams of Pierre-Paul Riquet and to the perseverance of the generations who have preserved it.
An invitation to travel?
Your journey ends in Sète, where the canal meets the Mediterranean. You have crossed more than 240 kilometres of landscape, history, dreams and innovation. This canal is more than just a waterway, it’s an invitation to travel back in time, to discover the wonders of southern France, to understand the importance of visionary dreams.
So perhaps the next time you take the Canal du Midi route, it won’t just be to contemplate its waters, but to relive the human epic that shaped it. You’ll see not just a canal, but a living work of art, vibrant with history and hope. A testimony to the past that continues to guide travellers into the future.
The Canal du Midi awaits you, like an old companion ready to tell you a thousand stories.
Getting to and from Toulouse and the Canal du Midi
A practical and mobile interlude, or how to get to Toulouse and the Canal du Midi to make your trip a reality.
By train
Toulouse-Matabiau station is at the crossroads of the railway lines between Montpellier, Bordeaux and the Massif-Central. Links :
Map of train lines and stations in Haute-Garonne, Taking the train in Occitanie and finding your train ticket to Toulouse
By bike
Along the Canal du Midi, take your bike on the TER liO train ( booking required in summer), or on a TGV or mainline train(see conditions) via Toulouse Matabiau station.
From France to Toulouse, travel by bike on the Canal towardsEurovelo 8 and the Mediterranean with your bike and the SNCF Occitanie regional express train:
By bus
Main lines, liO regional buses, departmental coaches, urban networks in Occitanie and Toulouse: the bus as an alternative for your journey, provided you hire a bike on the spot.
Maps of buses and coaches in Occitanie, routes and timetables, practical information:
By car
With your own car, in a hire car or carpooling?
Itineraries, car parks and routes to Toulouse by car:
Accommodation in Toulouse and on the canal
To find a rental or hotel for your stay, here’s what to look for in Haute-Garonne, where to stay in Toulouse and on your way along the Canal du Midi :
Where to sleep?
Links and map of accommodation and hotels in Toulouse and near the Canal to help you find the right place for your trip:

A trip on the Canal du Midi
Imagined from reality, here’s a possible journey, by others, to inspire the creation of your own.
Are you a lover of the great outdoors and would like to use alternative means of transport such as the train, bike or on foot to explore our natural and cultural heritage?
Would you like to explore the legendary Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and discover its treasures at your own pace?
Let’s join Luc on this adventure, which combines narrative and practical guide to offer a unique experience on the Canal du Midi, from stage to stage.
Toulouse, the start of a crystallising dream
We arrive by train in Toulouse, capital of the Occitanie region, where the Canal du Midi begins. Once we get off at Matabiau station, we make our way to the Port de l’Embouchure, the historic starting point of the Canal. The Ponts-Jumeaux, an impressive junction between the Canal Latéral à la Garonne and the Canal du Midi, welcomes me with its bright red bricks.
The cycle journey begins. The towpath is ideal: well laid out, flat and lined with plane trees that provide welcome shade. We quickly pass through Ramonville-Saint-Agne on the bank opposite the port, and Castanet-Tolosan, small towns where we pause to admire the first lock, at Castanet, and immerse ourselves in its history. At each lock, you can stop for a moment to watch the ballet of boaters or the calm waters as you head for Montgiscard.
- What to see in Toulouse
Le Capitole, the Saint-Sernin basilica and the Musée des Augustins for a cultural diversions.
- Practical tip
Choose a bike suited to your level of fitness, possibly with electric assistance, to avoid muscular strain and promote comfort.
Where to sleep?
Links and map to help you find the accommodation of your choice in Toulouse (French):
From Montgiscard to Castelnaudary
The next stage takes us through villages and gastronomy, from the Montgiscard lock to Castelnaudary. Each commune is a pretext for discovery, as you wander through the streets and discover the local heritage. The old towpath winds its way through the fields and small villages of the Lauragais region, faithfully following the Canal du Midi. In Villefranche-de-Lauragais, you can stop off for a break, a refreshment or even lunch, in keeping with the local produce.
Arriving at the port of Castelnaudary is an unforgettable experience. The Saint-Roch basin, a vast expanse of water framed by locks, is a work of art not to be missed. After a busy day, it’s time to enjoy a traditional cassoulet, a welcome comfort after all that effort!
- Don’t miss
The Renneville lock, the Cugarel mill, the Saint-Michel collegiate church and the Notre-Dame-de-Pitié chapel in Castelnaudary.
- Practical tip
Bring comfortable shoes so you can alternate between walking and cycling as you please.
The Naurouze sill, top of the canal
Between the two towns, we begin the ascent to the highest point of the canal, the Naurouze threshold, a site steeped in ingenuity and mystery. This is where the waters of the Black Mountain divide between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. A pause beside the obelisk dedicated to Pierre-Paul Riquet, inventor of the Canal du Midi, allows you to contemplate the work of man and nature.
- Montferrand
Port Lauragais is home to the Bassin de Naurouze and its lush vegetation.
- Practical tip
Treat yourself to a picnic to enjoy the serene atmosphere.
Heading for Carcassonne, between the Middle Ages and a stroll
From Castelnaudary, the route descends gently towards Carcassonne, where we decided to spend two days. After a day on the bikes, we’ll take a walk around the medieval city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ramparts, cobbled streets and Saint-Nazaire basilica will take you back in time.
The Canal du Midi runs through the lower town, offering a unique view of the city. We enjoy a boat trip, a relaxing interlude for the legs and an opportunity for the mind to wander.
- What to see in Carcassonne
The historic centre, the Pont-Vieux and the Carcassonne lock.
- Practical tip
Book comfortable accommodation in a hotel or guest house in town in advance.
From Trèbes to Béziers, canal bridges and local produce
Back on the bike, we pass through Trèbes, Puichéric and Homps, charming villages where the canal blends harmoniously into the landscape. In Argens-Minervois, enthusiasts can enjoy a glass of local wine or fruit juice before continuing on to Béziers, with a not-to-be-missed stop at the famous Cesse canal bridge in Sallèles-d’Aude.
In Béziers, the Fonseranes locks dazzle with their architectural expertise: this set of 9 staircase locks is a feat of engineering and a tourist gem. Another pedestrian diversions is a gentle climb up the streets towards Béziers cathedral to take in the panoramic view of the Canal du Midi, the Orb and the city.
- What to see in Béziers
The Béziers canal bridge, the Fonseranes locks, the streets around the cathedral, the bishops’ garden and the Plateau des Poètes.
- Practical tip
It’s best to explore the city on foot, as the narrow, steep streets are easier to negotiate.
From Béziers to Narbonne: vineyards and ancient heritage
Leaving Béziers, we drive along the Languedoc vineyards and through Capestang, where we can admire the collegiate church of Saint-Étienne and enjoy a relaxing moment on the terrace. The next stop is the village of Le Somail, with its picturesque port and unique antique bookshop on the Canal du Midi.
We then make a diversion to Narbonne, an ancient Roman city, via the Canal de la Jonction, a river link to the Mediterranean. It’s a pleasure to discover the Voie Domitienne and the Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur cathedral in Narbonne on foot, and to cycle along the Canal de la Robine to Gruissan and Port-la-Nouvelle.
A morning stop at Les Halles de Narbonne will allow you to sample the local specialities before setting off by bike or train for the Mediterranean.
- Don’t miss
Capestang and the collegiate church of Saint-Etienne, the bridge at Le Somail and the Palais-Musée des Archevêques in Narbonne.
- Practical tip
Take the time to explore the Canal de la Roubine by bike, with its splendid routes to Gruissan and Ile Sainte-Lucie.
Where to sleep?
Accommodation in Narbonne and the surrounding area, with links and a map to help you find the accommodation of your choice:
Agde and the finish at Sète, the Mediterranean in sight!
Leaving Béziers, we approach Agde, one of the oldest towns in France, with 2,600 years of history. Don’t miss the round lock at Agde, the only one of its kind, and let yourself be carried away by the Mediterranean atmosphere that pervades this final stop on the waterway.
The Canal du Midi plunges into the lake at the Onglous lighthouse, from where it becomes the Canal Royal that winds its way through the city of Sète. The greenway connects with Eurovelo 8, the Mediterranean cycle route.
Sète unveils itself. We reached the city’s seashores and canals, exhausted but fulfilled. The view over the Etang de Thau is spectacular, a blend of light, water and sky. As a preamble to this urban jewel, the port of Sète, where industrious boats and passenger ferries meet memories of the past with a maritime flavour.
- Between the lake and the Mediterranean
The round lock at Agde, the village of Marseillan, the old Villeroy salt works, the panoramic Mont Saint-Clair and the Halles de Sète.
More of Sète?
- Practical tip
Bring a towel for the long Baleine beach on the way to relax or swim in summer.
Where to sleep?
Accommodation in Sète and around Etang de Thau, with links and a map, to find the accommodation of your choice:
In connection with the Canal
And to help you explore the Canal du Midi further, here are a few links, a video and regularly updated suggestions.
History and maps
History of the Canal du Midi, geography, key dates and maps for travelling along the water in Occitania:

The Canal du Midi by bike, on video
And to get away from it all now, there’s a great journey to discover, all in pictures and on a bicycle: the entirety of a series of reports produced in 2022 for France 3 Occitanie, with the finishing touch being an animated map route from town to village:
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